A Regency Chemisette

 An accessory that is extremely underrated is the humble chemisette. It was used for warmth, modesty, and sometimes as a vehicle for displaying wealth in the form of fine lace or embroidery. It was occasionally referred to as a  'habit shirt'  in the 1830s, with a low necked version for use with dinner or evening dresses called a 'chemisette de vierge'. These simple little garments were worn as a layer beneath gown bodices, showing above the necklines.

                                                Chemisette, 1800 - 1825, National Trust, UK

                                        Chemisette, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

 Perhaps most importantly to a modern day costumer in quest of a realistic re-creation, they can elevate a simple outfit to greater authenticity. Here are the details of one I completed recently.

The pattern was adapted from 'Patterns of Fashion' by Janet Arnold, and I chose to make mine in fine dotted swiss cotton.  Lawn, voile, cotton tulle or a very fine linen would also be suitable - the aim is for softness, semi-transparency and lightness.

The fronts were cut on the straight of grain, the back on the cross grain - this enables it to flex with and cling to the body and shoulders, giving a better fit overall. The collar stand is a straight strip the measurement of the neck plus one inch (2.5cm), and the double ruffled collar that I drafted was 2.5 times the collar stand length and 4 inches (10cm) wide. Everything was handsewn for greater authenticity.

First I hemmed the front edges, then assembled the shoulders with a lapped seam. Next I hemmed the side edges, taking great care not to stretch the back edges as they are on the bias. I folded up a narrow casing on front and back hems and stitched in place - this completes the body assembly. 

Onto the collar stand - this binds the neckline and supports the ruffles. Depending on your neck measurement, it may be necessary to gather the chemisette neckline to fit - I did this with a fine running stitch, drawing it up to the correct length, distributing the gathers evenly and then gently pressing them. The neckline is then bound with the collar stand. Press well with just the tip of the iron.

Perhaps the most tedious part of the proceedings is hemming all around the double ruffle piece with a tiny rolled hem!

Fold the ruffle in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, press along the fold. You can then choose to whip gather along the fold or run a fine gathering stitch along the centre line, using the press mark as a guide. I chose to do the latter, then applied the ruffle to the collar stand edge with a fine back stitch.

If you leave the collar stand binding open at the ends, you can thread it with a narrow tape, ribbon or cord as fastening, or sew the ends closed and attach ties, or make a thread loop on one end and sew a small button on the other. 

Thread a narrow tape, ribbon or cord through the bottom casings to anchor them around the waistline and tie at the centre front. And you're finished!